Saturday Tasting
"The Benefits of Seniority!"
April 26, 12-5pm
Patrick has selected the theme of mature wines for this week’s tasting. He is particularly interested in the convergence, or divergence, of a wine’s chronological and biological age. Do wines age at similar or different rates? What can the sensory evaluation of a wine tell us about the aging process? Why do some producers hold back their wines for years while others rush them to market? This weekend the vintages will include 2012, 2013, 2016, and 2020, allowing for a good range of ages that should spark some interesting discussion with Winestone wine experts. Though it is an era of increasing mobility, and emphasis on freshness in wine, with less focus on developing one’s own wine cellar, the effect of the age of a wine on its taste remains a compelling issue, and always a fun element when included in a tasting. Note to red wine lovers, three out of four of this week’s tasting wines are reds!
What: 2020 Disznoko Inspiration Dry Tokaji: $23
Where: Tokay, Hungary
Grapes: Furmint, Harslevelu, 90/10
The Disznóko estate was classified as a first growth property at the time of the initial classification in 1772 and remains so today. The estate is essentially a hill of volcanic clay soil with perlite pebbles: at the top of the hill is the boar-shaped rock from which the estate takes its name, and the vineyards are arranged down the southern slope, with the winery at the bottom of the slopes. In 1992, post-Communist era, it was purchased by AXA Millésimes (owners of Château Pichon Longueville and Quinta do Noval) who have reinvigorated Disznóko and put in the love and investment required to return it to the top rank of Tokaji estates. The region is world famous for dessert wine, but makes great- under-recognized- dry wine as well. This gorgeous dry Tokaji is mineral and taut, yet with an undeniable fruit density at its core. Hints of salts and leafy green herbs join cool orchard fruits on the nose, just a touch of nutty barrel character, with a super-dry palate that has natural concentration to spare, real pithy citrus intensity, and spices adding to the lingering finish. Intense and yet quite subtle in its way, it a lovely, intelligent wine from Disznóko.
What: 2012 Martinez Lacuesta Hinia Rioja: $36
Where: Rioja, Spain
Grapes: Tempranillo, Graciano, Mazuelo.
Martínez Lacuesta was officially founded on 1 February 1895, at the time that their neighbors to the north, namely, Bordeaux, were failing due to phylloxera.. They are known for the ‘calle ventilla’ rows of casks stacked five high, with a street (calle) down the middle. In the 20th century Lacuesta was also known for innovative labeling and advertising. A 2007 re-tooling created a highly modern venue for this venerable Rioja producer. Lacuesta’s Hinia is produced only in the finest vintages, a classic Rioja blend that ages a minimum of 30 months in oak barrels. It has an intense cherry red color with a marked garnet edge. In the nose its intensity and aromatic refinement are notable, with notes of ripe black fruit which are the prelude to an elegant range of balsamic notes with tobacco leaves, caramel, vanilla and chocolate. On the palate the 2012 Hinia is fresh, with a well-balanced acidity. Its smooth tannins and agreeable structure offer a joyful sensation in the mouth.
What: 2016 Easton Zinfandel: $27
Where: Amador County, California, USA
Grapes: Zinfandel
Easton Vineyard is set at the edge of the Sierra Foothills in the heart of Gold Country. The Amador County wine region beckons wine connoisseurs ‘prospecting a new adventure.’ Terre Rouge and Easton Wines were founded in the late 80’s by Bill Easton and Jane O’Riordan. Winemaker Bill Easton is one of the original Rhône Rangers and pioneered the Rhône varietals in the Sierra Foothills under the TERRE ROUGE label. The EASTON portfolio includes Amador County favorites like old vine Zinfandel and Barbera. Their wines are balanced and elegant, with complexity that develops as the wines age in bottle. The French call it élevage, which is "raising" the wine in the bottle. This is truly an elegant Zinfandel, made from organic grapes grown at 2000 feet altitude. Perfect for backyard BBQs and picnics. It shows great spicy aromatics, delicious boysenberry fruit flavors, and a fascinating mineral laden finish from the vineyards schist-laden hillside.
What: 2013 Laluce LeDrude Aglianico del Vulture: $35
Where: Vulture Mountain, Basilicata, Italy
Grapes: Aglianico
The LaLuce family has a multi-generational history of making wine since 1905. Azienda Michele Laluce was officially born in 2001, in the heart of Mt. Vulture (outline of a double wing structure), at the foot of the extinct volcano on 6 hectares. The volcanic soil-based (limestone, clay magmosi) vineyards are located in the charming Contrada Serra Territory between Ginestra and Venosa, in the heart of the Vulture button, the rows seeming to climb to the very cone of the volcano. Grapes are hand harvested from vineyards at 400 meters of altitude in order to produce this Aglianico del vulture DOCG red wine. LaLuce's Aglianico grapes spend 12 months aging in large oak barrels and a further 12 months in bottle, and can then be held back for years. A powerful and distinctive red wine made from a unique terroir and time-honored wine-making traditions. Dark ruby red to garnet in the glass. On the expressive and intense nose are floral notes (violet, rose, lavender), black fruit (plum, blackberry), broom, balsamico, and a whiff of smoke. On the palate the wine is very concentrated, with mouth gripping tannins, bracing acidity, a lengthy finish, and aromas that follow thru on great flavor concentration.
What: 2020 Disznoko Inspiration Dry Tokaji: $23
Where: Tokay, Hungary
Grapes: Furmint, Harslevelu, 90/10
The Disznóko estate was classified as a first growth property at the time of the initial classification in 1772 and remains so today. The estate is essentially a hill of volcanic clay soil with perlite pebbles: at the top of the hill is the boar-shaped rock from which the estate takes its name, and the vineyards are arranged down the southern slope, with the winery at the bottom of the slopes. In 1992, post-Communist era, it was purchased by AXA Millésimes (owners of Château Pichon Longueville and Quinta do Noval) who have reinvigorated Disznóko and put in the love and investment required to return it to the top rank of Tokaji estates. The region is world famous for dessert wine, but makes great- under-recognized- dry wine as well. This gorgeous dry Tokaji is mineral and taut, yet with an undeniable fruit density at its core. Hints of salts and leafy green herbs join cool orchard fruits on the nose, just a touch of nutty barrel character, with a super-dry palate that has natural concentration to spare, real pithy citrus intensity, and spices adding to the lingering finish. Intense and yet quite subtle in its way, it a lovely, intelligent wine from Disznóko.
What: 2012 Martinez Lacuesta Hinia Rioja: $36
Where: Rioja, Spain
Grapes: Tempranillo, Graciano, Mazuelo.
Martínez Lacuesta was officially founded on 1 February 1895, at the time that their neighbors to the north, namely, Bordeaux, were failing due to phylloxera.. They are known for the ‘calle ventilla’ rows of casks stacked five high, with a street (calle) down the middle. In the 20th century Lacuesta was also known for innovative labeling and advertising. A 2007 re-tooling created a highly modern venue for this venerable Rioja producer. Lacuesta’s Hinia is produced only in the finest vintages, a classic Rioja blend that ages a minimum of 30 months in oak barrels. It has an intense cherry red color with a marked garnet edge. In the nose its intensity and aromatic refinement are notable, with notes of ripe black fruit which are the prelude to an elegant range of balsamic notes with tobacco leaves, caramel, vanilla and chocolate. On the palate the 2012 Hinia is fresh, with a well-balanced acidity. Its smooth tannins and agreeable structure offer a joyful sensation in the mouth.
What: 2016 Easton Zinfandel: $27
Where: Amador County, California, USA
Grapes: Zinfandel
Easton Vineyard is set at the edge of the Sierra Foothills in the heart of Gold Country. The Amador County wine region beckons wine connoisseurs ‘prospecting a new adventure.’ Terre Rouge and Easton Wines were founded in the late 80’s by Bill Easton and Jane O’Riordan. Winemaker Bill Easton is one of the original Rhône Rangers and pioneered the Rhône varietals in the Sierra Foothills under the TERRE ROUGE label. The EASTON portfolio includes Amador County favorites like old vine Zinfandel and Barbera. Their wines are balanced and elegant, with complexity that develops as the wines age in bottle. The French call it élevage, which is "raising" the wine in the bottle. This is truly an elegant Zinfandel, made from organic grapes grown at 2000 feet altitude. Perfect for backyard BBQs and picnics. It shows great spicy aromatics, delicious boysenberry fruit flavors, and a fascinating mineral laden finish from the vineyards schist-laden hillside.
What: 2013 Laluce LeDrude Aglianico del Vulture: $35
Where: Vulture Mountain, Basilicata, Italy
Grapes: Aglianico
The LaLuce family has a multi-generational history of making wine since 1905. Azienda Michele Laluce was officially born in 2001, in the heart of Mt. Vulture (outline of a double wing structure), at the foot of the extinct volcano on 6 hectares. The volcanic soil-based (limestone, clay magmosi) vineyards are located in the charming Contrada Serra Territory between Ginestra and Venosa, in the heart of the Vulture button, the rows seeming to climb to the very cone of the volcano. Grapes are hand harvested from vineyards at 400 meters of altitude in order to produce this Aglianico del vulture DOCG red wine. LaLuce's Aglianico grapes spend 12 months aging in large oak barrels and a further 12 months in bottle, and can then be held back for years. A powerful and distinctive red wine made from a unique terroir and time-honored wine-making traditions. Dark ruby red to garnet in the glass. On the expressive and intense nose are floral notes (violet, rose, lavender), black fruit (plum, blackberry), broom, balsamico, and a whiff of smoke. On the palate the wine is very concentrated, with mouth gripping tannins, bracing acidity, a lengthy finish, and aromas that follow thru on great flavor concentration.